In 2013, a bluefin tuna weighing 221 kg was sold for $1.8 million. Meanwhile, a can of tuna in the supermarket costs around $2. So, do you know what the difference is? And why do bluefin tuna in Japan command prices of up to millions of dollars?
Bluefin Tuna vs. Canned Tuna: What’s the Difference?
In reality, the fish in canned tuna is not of the same quality as the million-dollar tuna. The canned meat comes from smaller albacore tuna, which grow quickly and are abundant in the open ocean.
Canned Tuna.
Of course, this type of fish doesn’t weigh up to 220 kg; only one type of tuna in the world can grow to such a size, which is the bluefin tuna. The price of these fish depends on various factors.
Japanese Tuna Costs More Than 10 Times American Tuna
Derek Wilcox, a chef at Shoji Japanese restaurant in New York, has trained in Japan and worked there for over ten years. Restaurants like Shoji specialize in serving live bluefin tuna, also known as kuro maguro in Japanese.
Frozen Bluefin Tuna.
Shoji sources fish from various suppliers, including the Tsukiji fish market in Japan. Although there are many types of tuna, bluefin tuna is the highest quality you can find in high-end sushi restaurants.
“The price of the fish depends entirely on its origin, but it will never be cheap. While a local bluefin tuna from the East Coast may cost between $40-80 per kg, bluefin tuna from Japan can cost over $400 per kg.”
Japanese Tuna is Tastier than American Tuna in Winter.
According to Wilcox, Japanese tuna is tastier than American tuna during the winter, while Boston tuna is best in summer and fall. Tuna from the town of Oma (Aomori, Japan) is regarded by experts as the best in the world, priced between $400-450 per kg in peak season. When imported to the U.S., their prices nearly double.
Undergoes Many Processes Before Reaching the Dining Table
Aside from its superior fat content, another reason why bluefin tuna is so expensive is that it undergoes many processes before reaching diners. Wilcox states that bluefin tuna passes through many hands in Japan, but this process is not necessarily negative. They are well-handled from the catch with precise cuts, minimizing damage to the quality of the meat. Thus, despite going through many steps, the meat remains fresh.
The price of the fish depends entirely on its origin.
For example, a bluefin tuna in Boston is caught by fishermen, delivered to distributors, and then to restaurants. However, for a bluefin tuna in Japan, after being caught, the fish is sent to a cooperative. These fish are sold through auctions held at government-run fish markets. Only then do they reach restaurants or hotels.
The Tuna Auction Culture in Japan
Japan does not set a fixed price for their fish.
Unlike other countries, Japan does not set a fixed price for their fish. Instead, the Japanese conduct auctions where the highest bidder gets the fish. This way, fishermen can earn more money, and the sales attract more participants. Those participating are in a competitive mindset with others and are compelled to pay as much as possible for the fish.
The First Auction of the Year Always Sets Record Prices
The Japanese believe that buying tuna at the start of the year brings luck and prosperity.
In Japan, the first auction of the year will have the highest prices. This is primarily because the Japanese believe that purchasing tuna at the beginning of the year will bring good luck and business prosperity for the entire year. Therefore, the fish during this period is of the best quality, with exorbitant prices. This is also why the 221 kg fish was sold for $1.8 million in 2013, and another fish sold for $323,000 at the beginning of 2018.
According to Japanese beliefs, and Asian culture in general, the first thing you do in the new year will determine your fortune for the year. Hence, the first tuna sold in the year always carries the highest price for that entire year.
Different parts of bluefin tuna have different prices.
Additionally, different parts of bluefin tuna also have different prices. The fish is usually cut into four sections lengthwise, with the head and entrails removed, only one of the two belly sections is kept. The most expensive part is called Otoro, which is the fattiest part located near the head and neck. It is very small and requires a lot of effort to separate from the skin. Meanwhile, Akami is the most common and least expensive part of the fish, consisting of the lean meat found in the middle of the fish near the spine.
The leanest part is located near the spine.
Chef Wilcox notes that people often assess the quality of a bluefin tuna based on its Akami. “Farmed tuna are often fed sardines; some discerning diners can actually taste the sardine flavor in the fat of farmed tuna. In contrast, wild tuna with a diverse diet will taste much cleaner and have a lighter fat flavor.”
Marbled Meat
Tuna meat has beautiful marbled fat.
The reason tuna is a preferred meat for sushi is due to its beautiful marbling. Compared to other types of raw fish, quality bluefin tuna, with its marbled meat, provides a sweet, rich flavor that no other fish can offer.
Decreasing Supply, Increasing Demand
For many decades, wild bluefin tuna have been overfished in the Pacific Ocean, leading to a serious decline in their populations. There are three main types of bluefin tuna in the world, and they all face overfishing issues. Although humans have implemented various regulations to prevent this, they have not been very effective due to the thriving black market. The decreasing supply coupled with high demand has resulted in extremely high tuna prices in the black market.
Tuna Cannot Reproduce in Captivity
Bluefin tuna are extremely sensitive to environmental factors and cannot be kept in captivity.
Many companies have attempted to breed bluefin tuna in captivity but have failed. This is because bluefin tuna are extremely sensitive to environmental factors such as water temperature, noise pollution, and even the flow of currents, which can affect their reproductive capabilities. These are factors that are difficult to control in artificial ponds. Since companies cannot breed them in captivity, their only solution is to reproduce naturally.
Japanese Tuna Butchering Skills
Statistics show that the Japanese consume about ¾ of the bluefin tuna caught worldwide. The country also accounts for 80% of the bluefin tuna caught from the Mediterranean Sea.
The Japanese perform tuna butchering as an art form.
Many experts on bluefin tuna agree that the Japanese have a superior technique for filleting this type of fish compared to anyone else. Japan has been consuming this species for significantly longer than the rest of the world, making it a cultural practice for them. As a result, they approach this task as an art form. In fact, many fishing companies will ship bluefin tuna to Japan for the Japanese to fillet. Some American companies even do the same. Afterward, Japan will transport the tuna back to the United States.
Although this process is incredibly costly, companies must ensure that the tuna is preserved throughout a long journey without spoiling. This means they have to invest heavily in high-quality temperature-controlled storage facilities. All these factors contribute to the retail price of tuna.
