Ambergris, musk from male deer, castoreum… all contain exquisite musk used to create unique perfumes.
When people think of perfume, they often imagine fragrant flowers like roses and lavender. However, this notion may only hold true from the time when perfumes were first created.
Few know that, alongside various plant species, the scent of perfumes also comes from some special animal-derived products. The list below will prove this to you.
1. Ambergris
This impressively named perfume ingredient is produced from the digestive system of sperm whales. The exact origin of this compound remains uncertain. However, many researchers agree that ambergris is synthesized by sperm whales to aid in the digestion of hard-to-digest food in their stomachs.
The unremarkable shape of ambergris
Ambergris is also excreted into the environment by sperm whales in the form of foul-smelling waste. Over time, oxidized ambergris transforms into a compound with a very pleasant and alluring scent.
Manufacturers have utilized this in transforming ambergris into an ingredient for perfume production. When heated in alcohol, the white crystals of ambrein are separated from ambergris.
Subsequently, by oxidizing ambrein, we obtain ambrox and ambrinol, two components that serve as raw materials for perfume production.
Ambergris is a very rare compound, found in only 1% of sperm whales. Therefore, it is exclusively used to produce high-end and expensive perfumes.
2. Musk from Male Deer
Musk is found in the musk deer, which primarily inhabits the northern regions of Asia, particularly the Himalayas. This small, solitary, and timid animal lacks antlers.
Despite their lack of antlers, male musk deer carry a special chemical that attracts mates. They store this treasure in a small pouch located in front of their genitalia.
These substances are highly fragrant and have caught the attention of perfume manufacturers.
The pouch of the male musk deer containing the treasure sought by perfume manufacturers
The musk pouch is dried, chopped, and then placed into a strong alcohol solution. Manufacturers soak them for months or even years. The result is a compound with a sweet, gentle fragrance that lasts a long time.
3. Musk from Civet Cat
Unlike musk deer, the musk from civet cats is thick and buttery yellow, which can darken over time. This substance is secreted from the perineal glands of civet cats and is harvested by humans in a dry and solid form.
Civet cat
Close-up of musk harvested from the civet cat
In its normal state, this musk has a very strong and unpleasant odor, similar to feces. However, when diluted with alcohol, it produces a sweet, gentle fragrance reminiscent of flowers.
Through proper processing, civet musk transforms into a true treasure
Today, civet musk is used in perfume production in the form of finely powdered material. It is estimated that with 500 grams of this powder, it can be preserved and used for up to four years without affecting its quality.
4. Castoreum from Beavers
Beavers are known for their territorial behavior, being aggressive towards unauthorized intruders. They use mud, debris, and castoreum to mark their territory.
Beaver
Castoreum is produced by beavers from a gland that contains small sacs located between the pelvis and tail.
In the perfume industry, this substance is used as a highly special ingredient. The castoreum sacs within the beaver are smoked or sun-dried to remove moisture. At this stage, castoreum becomes soft and sweet-smelling.
The scent sacs within the beaver’s body are dried in the sun
Not only does it create a scent, but perfumes containing castoreum also provide a pleasant sensation on the skin, preventing irritation for the user.
Additionally, castoreum is used to treat certain ailments such as headaches and epilepsy, as it contains salicylic acid, similar to aspirin.
However, it is unfortunate that to obtain castoreum, humans must kill the beavers.
5. Hyraceum from Hyrax Droppings
Hyraceum is the fossilized excrement of hyraxes, a medium-sized animal resembling a guinea pig. They live in herds, with each herd consisting of 10-80 individuals.
Interestingly, these animals tend to defecate in the same location, making it easy for humans to harvest their “products” in large quantities at once.
To produce perfume, humans need to harvest these
Hyraceum can be solid and brown in color. When it breaks down, it produces a dark oil with a scent reminiscent of fermentation, which is very complex and has a strong intensity.
Similar to the essences obtained from other animal species, hyraceum is an excellent fixative for perfumes.
While contributing to the creation of expensive perfume bottles, many of the aforementioned animal species must pay with their lives to serve human needs.
Therefore, we need to pay attention to and balance the development of the perfume industry with the preservation of these wild species.