We often hear about waves and wind; waves and wind are inherently connected—without wind, how can there be waves?
The ocean is never still. Whether we observe it from the beach or from a boat, we can always see the waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy transferring through the water, causing the water to move in a circular motion.
However, water does not actually move with the waves. Waves transmit energy, not water, across the ocean, and if unobstructed, they can traverse the entire ocean basin.
Wind is the primary cause of ocean waves, but there are many other factors that can also create waves in the ocean.
Ocean waves are surface waves that occur at the top layer of the sea or ocean. They are typically generated by wind, but can also be caused by seismic activities, and can travel thousands of kilometers. The height of waves can range from just a few centimeters to the size of a tsunami. The water molecules involved in wave motion rotate in place and have little translational movement in the direction of the wave propagation; however, a significant amount of energy can be transmitted through the waves.
Ocean Waves.
- Just like when a stone is dropped into water, creating ripples that spread outwards, the vast ocean can also transmit waves generated by wind from one location to another.
- When the tide rises, the sea level will rise towards the shore, which can create waves even without wind. There is a common misconception that tidal waves are the same as tsunamis. The causes of tsunamis are entirely unrelated to tidal information and can occur at any tidal state.
- All oceans on Earth have currents; when ocean currents move, the surface of the sea will no longer be calm.
- Sometimes, earthquakes or volcanic eruptions beneath the ocean floor can also stir the ocean, creating waves.
- Other dangerous waves can be caused by underwater disturbances that rapidly displace large amounts of water, such as earthquakes, landslides, or volcanic eruptions. These long waves are known as tsunamis. Water surges from storms and tsunamis can cause severe destruction when they come ashore.
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