Although its practicality may be limited, the moonphase display feature remains a focal point at major watch exhibitions, showcasing the craftsmanship of the manufacturer.
Watches are not just tools for measuring time; they are also intricate works of art that reflect the skill and finesse of master craftsmen.
Among the complex functions found in watches, moonphase, which indicates the lunar cycle, has a unique appeal, even though few users truly take advantage of this feature.
According to Bob’s Watches, this feature is represented by a moonphase indicator on the watch dial, revealing the lunar cycle that occurs over approximately 29.5 days. The moonphase simulates the phases of the Moon as observed from Earth, including the new moon, first quarter, full moon, and last quarter.
The mechanism of the moonphase typically includes a rotating disk beneath a window, displaying the Moon’s image in various phases. This disk is driven by a complex gear system, ensuring accuracy in displaying the lunar cycle.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a watch displaying moonphase accurate to 45 million years. (Image: Monochrome Watches).
Since ancient times, humans have observed the Sun and Moon to tell time. The rise and fall of the Sun creates days, the waxing and waning of the Moon creates months, and the Earth’s orbit around the Sun creates years. Understanding these cycles allowed humans to predict seasons, animal migration patterns, and the timing for planting and harvesting.
Today, in the digital age, watches featuring moonphase offer a chance to reconnect with the origins of time. While not the most practical function, the moonphase symbolizes the craftsmanship of the manufacturer as well as the unique aesthetic preferences of the wearer, according to Financial Times.
At this year’s Watches and Wonders exhibition, the moonphase took center stage as many prestigious watch brands unveiled impressive new designs.
From affordable models like the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Moonphase with a denim blue dial and the Frédérique Constant Classic Moonphase Date with a green dial, to higher-end versions like the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon with a dial coated in Super-LumiNova that glows in the dark.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar with a moonphase sub-dial coated in Super-LumiNova. (Image: Monochrome Watches).
Though not highly functional, the moonphase carries deep significance.
“The Moon has an allure in many aspects. For many years, moonphase has been the most requested complex feature,” Mike France, a representative of Christopher Ward watches, shared. Christopher Ward has responded to this demand with two new models: the C1 Moonglow and C1 Moonphase.
France believes the appeal of moonphase comes from its associations with poetry, love, mythology, and even comic books. A prime example is the collaboration between Omega and Swatch in the Moonswatch collection, featuring Snoopy, NASA’s safety ambassador, sleeping on a waning Moon, which has created a sensation among watch enthusiasts.
Moonphase often appears on classic perpetual calendar watches, such as the Villeret Quantìeme Perpétuel by Blancpain. The image of the Moon with a human face on the Blancpain watch is regarded as a symbol of the brand’s rebirth following the quartz crisis, while also playfully responding to the dry precision of modern watches.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication. (Image: Watch by Sjx, Vacheron Constantin).
However, sometimes the watch face is not large enough to hold all the lunar information that users desire. A prime example is Vacheron Constantin’s Berkley pocket watch, which features 63 complex functions, with moonphase taking a prominent position at the 12 o’clock mark.
The Berkley watch’s ability to accurately display the lunar calendar for over a millennium has been an incredible achievement.
However, this record has been surpassed by IWC’s superlative Eternal Calendar, launched this year.
Experts at IWC have developed a moonphase gear reduction system, consisting of three wheels, allowing for an accurate moonphase display for 45 million years. To verify this accuracy, humanity may need to wait an additional 45 million years for an answer.
