Fili di Dio is hailed as the world’s most delicious pasta, yet it is also one of the most challenging dishes to make.
The town of Nuoro on the island of Sardinia is the birthplace of Fili di Dio, which translates to The Thread of God. This traditional pasta has origins tied to La Festa di San Francesco, an ancient religious ceremony held annually in May. For the past 200 years, the only way to taste this famous pasta has been for travelers to complete a 33 km pilgrimage, walking or riding from Nuoro to Lula.
However, this sacred dish is at risk of disappearing forever, as only three women in the world know how to prepare it. They strive to prevent this grim prospect by passing their knowledge to the next generation.
Paola Abraini, 67, learned her skills from her mother, who was taught by Paola’s grandmother. Only one of Paola’s two daughters knows the basic technique. However, her daughter lacks the passion and patience required to continue the family tradition. Now, only two women remain in the world for Paola to pass on the secret of making the pasta: her granddaughter Abraini and her sister-in-law.
Paola Abraini is one of the last women in the world holding the secret to making Fili di Dio pasta. (Photo: Sara Muggittu).
In recent years, Paola has become desperate to save the pasta from the brink of extinction. She once asked the local government to establish a school for girls who wanted to become Fili di Dio makers. However, the authorities declined due to budget constraints. Thus, Paola invited students to her home. Yet, this has not been smooth sailing either, as the process of creating the “Threads of God” is not easy. In an interview with BBC, Paola mentioned that the issue is when girls see the process of making Fili di Dio, they all think “there are too many steps” and give up.
But Paola has never given up in her quest for a successor. Since 2015, she has often been invited to Rome to showcase the technique of making Fili di Dio in magazines. Subsequently, she began making these rare pasta strands for several restaurants in the capital. This is the first time in history that diners can enjoy the sacred pasta without having to embark on a pilgrimage.
Fili di Dio is half the thickness of Capellini – angel hair pasta. (Photo: Gianluco Pino Chef/Instagram).
The ingredients for this type of pasta include semolina flour (hard wheat), salt, and water. To create the thin strands, one must continuously fold and pull the dough by hand multiple times. The thinner the pasta, the higher the quality.
After that, the pulled strips of pasta are placed on a wooden surface to dry in the sun for a few days or kept indoors at room temperature.
The question arises: why is the “Thread of God” so difficult to make? The answer lies in the process. Since every step of the pasta-making process is done by hand, it is quite labor-intensive. After mixing the ingredients, the dough must be rested for a very long time. This is the key to creating long, thin strands of pasta. Once the resting period is over, the artisan begins to stretch the pasta. This special processing makes it a “rare find.”
Paola rolls the dough into 8 long, thin strands. She then cuts them in half and continues to stretch them out. This process is repeated 32 times, resulting in 256 extremely thin strands of pasta. They are even thinner than angel hair pasta—a type of pasta known to many.
If not pulled carefully, the Fili di Dio maker can easily break the strands. (Photo: Grand Voyage Italy).
The thinness of the Threads of God. (Photo: Grand Voyage Italy).
The pasta after being pulled is left to dry in the sun. (Photo: Grand Voyage Italy).
Next, the strands of pasta are stretched across a flat, round tray called a fundu, layered three high, and left to dry in the sun for several hours. The layers of pasta stick together and resemble a piece of muslin. When served, we break these pasta pieces apart and cook them.
The process of making pasta may sound simple, but not every chef can succeed, even those with extensive experience. Paola says people still speculate that she has a secret technique for making the pasta and does not want to reveal it. But she denies this and states that the secret is right before the eyes of those watching: it lies in her hands.
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