Residents of Sicily are finding ways to adapt to the booming population of invasive blue crabs by turning them into a culinary delicacy.
In the coastal suburbs of Catania in eastern Sicily, the Salamone family sells all local specialties at their seafood restaurant called “La Fish”, including swordfish, sardines, and tuna. However, the new dish attracting many diners is the Atlantic blue crab. Inside the restaurant, nearly a dozen blue crabs are displayed on the table alongside various seafood. This species, characterized by its distinctive blue claws and olive-green shell, is causing an ecological crisis in Italy. Originating from the western Atlantic, they have no natural predators in the Mediterranean and primarily feed on clams, threatening the harvest of shellfish and Italy’s status as the world’s leading clam producer.
Blue crabs have no natural predators in the Mediterranean region. (Photo: Kate Stanworth).
The increasing number of blue crabs is causing serious economic damage to local fishermen in Sicily, who are facing a crisis due to declining fish populations. Alberto Pulizzi, director of the fisheries agency in Sicily, states that blue crabs are destroying fishermen’s nets and consuming clams and mussels, which are highly valued in Italian cuisine.
Some Italians, like the Salamone family, are adapting to the invasive crabs by incorporating them into dishes. Chef Mario Contadino, who oversees dinner service at La Fish, notes that the sweet flavor of blue crabs adds depth to any dish. According to him, the people of Catania may not be open to trying unfamiliar foods like blue crabs, but he is confident that its taste will speak for itself and attract even the most discerning diners.
Francesco Tiralongo, a marine biologist at the University of Catania, is monitoring the explosive growth of blue crabs. He explains that increased water temperatures in the Mediterranean are turning the waters off Sicily into a favorable environment for this invasive species. “Changing seafood consumption habits in Sicily to include invasive species like blue crabs is a necessary response to climate change and current ecological challenges,” Tiralongo says.
Currently, blue crabs are frequently available at Catania’s famous fish market behind Piazza del Duomo. Rosario, a fishmonger at the market, has been selling blue crabs for the past few months to meet customer demand. Starting with just a few kilograms of blue crabs each day, he now sells an average of about 20 kg per day. According to Rosario, traditional crustaceans he used to sell are unavailable, but he is purchasing more and more blue crabs from fishermen. Although not a familiar food in Sicily, blue crabs are not much different from many crustaceans that the people of Catania typically consume. Rosario notes that customers are gradually becoming familiar with blue crabs and seem to enjoy their tender flavor.
