Apricot trees are not particularly picky about the type of soil they grow in. Evidence shows that they can thrive in various soil types, including clayey, sandy loam, alluvial, basalt red soil, and even soil mixed with stones and gravel. The key factor is that the soil must not be dead or too poor in nutrients to support any plant species.
1. General Characteristics
– The apricot tree is a hardy ornamental plant that is easy to grow and is considered one of the simplest plants to cultivate.
– Apricot trees are not very selective about the soil they are planted in. Research indicates that various soil types, such as clayey, sandy loam, alluvial, basalt red soil, and even those containing stones or gravel, can support apricot trees. As long as the soil is not dead or extremely nutrient-poor, they can thrive.
– Apricot trees dislike waterlogged soil and areas prone to flooding. Their long taproots can rot if submerged for extended periods, leading to wilting and eventually death.
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Apricot Blossoms (Photo: comp) |
In addition to the main roots, apricot trees have numerous lateral roots that grow around the neck of the root, which are responsible for absorbing nutrients from the upper soil layers to nourish the tree. If the main root rots or breaks, it cannot regenerate, but the lateral roots can grow back, making them vital for the tree’s growth and development.
– For ornamental apricot trees, the primary considerations are the shape of the tree and controlling the flowering period. If the branches are too vigorous, flowering may be suppressed; if the tree is stunted, the number of flowers will be few and unattractive. Since they are often grown in pots, managing soil and fertilization is even more crucial than for those planted directly in the ground.
– Apricot trees thrive in hot and humid climates, ideally between 25°C to 30°C. They can tolerate higher temperatures for extended periods, even months, but they do poorly in cooler regions with temperatures below 10°C.
– Apricot trees prefer sunny conditions, but their drought resistance is only moderate. They are suitable for areas with distinctly marked wet and dry seasons. During the rainy season, there should be ample rainfall, while the dry season aligns with the tree’s leaf drop and flowering period. For instance, in the South, any significant weather changes towards the end of the year, like heavy rain or cold spells, can disrupt the flowering schedule.
2. Techniques for Planting and Caring for Apricot Trees:
Each plant species has its specific planting methods. Some require advanced techniques to yield high productivity, while others are simpler to grow, like apricot trees. However, the basic method allows the trees to survive and flower, while grafting techniques, shaping, or creating beautiful bonsai apricot trees require more skill.
* Building Raised Beds and Drainage Ditches:
Apricot trees do not thrive in low-lying areas with high groundwater levels or soil that is frequently waterlogged, especially during the rainy season. If planting in such conditions, raised beds should be constructed, typically about 1-1.2 meters wide to accommodate young apricot trees (which will be transplanted into pots as they grow).
Ditches should be created between the raised beds to facilitate drainage and prevent flooding in the apricot garden.
* Propagation Methods:
a. Sexual Propagation: This method involves planting seeds. Advantages include a high number of seedlings produced at low cost with minimal labor. Disadvantages: Seedlings often do not inherit the desirable traits of the parent tree (e.g., smaller flowers, fewer branches, or different colors).
b. Asexual Propagation: This can be done through cuttings, grafting, or layering. Advantages include seedlings retaining the complete characteristics of the parent tree, but this method is not suitable for mass production.
– Layering: Select a small branch from the parent apricot tree, making a ring cut about 3-4 cm long, avoiding cutting into the wood inside, and then removing the bark. Afterward, use a mixture of soil and well-rotted manure to cover the cut area, securing it tightly with thick fabric, burlap, or coconut coir. Water the soil daily to keep it moist for a few months. Once the area has developed many roots, the branch can be severed from the parent tree.
– Grafting (approach grafting): This involves taking branches from the parent tree and grafting them onto another apricot tree to create a new tree that exhibits the parent tree’s characteristics.
Another grafting method is bud grafting, where a leaf bud or shoot from the parent tree is grafted onto another tree used as the rootstock.
– Wedge Grafting: Take a rootstock apricot tree, and select a spot on the trunk to graft a branch or bud. Use a sharp knife to create a small triangular cut equivalent to the size of a corn kernel and peel away that bark layer.
Using a sharp knife, separate a small bud or leaf from the parent apricot tree and attach it to the exposed triangular area of the rootstock. Afterward, use fabric or tape to secure the graft. In a few weeks, if the grafted bud or leaf appears green and healthy, it indicates success.
A single rootstock can support multiple buds or grafts. This is why you see apricot trees with flowers in various colors, resulting from this grafting technique.
– Wedge Grafting: Use a knife to make a wedge shape on the graft branch and a corresponding notch on the rootstock (or vice versa), then fit the two parts together. It is essential that the graft branch and rootstock have approximately equal diameters and are of similar age for successful grafting.
Place the two pieces tightly together and use rubber bands or nylon string to secure the graft firmly.
Grafting is best done during the rainy season when plants are full of vitality. Choose a healthy spot on the rootstock to create the graft site, ensuring good sap flow. The process must be carried out quickly, as prolonged exposure to air can dry out the sap, leading to graft failure.
* Caring for Apricot Trees
– Watering: Although apricot trees can endure sunny conditions, they do not possess high drought resistance. During the dry season, regular watering is essential. For those grown in gardens, watering daily or every other day is beneficial. Direct water at the base and mist the leaves lightly for better results. Watering should be done early in the morning (before 9 AM) or in the cool late afternoon.
During the rainy season, apricot trees in the garden may not require watering unless there are extended periods of intense sunlight; in such cases, additional watering may be necessary to maintain soil moisture. Potted apricot trees are more prone to drying out due to the limited soil volume, so they need daily watering, ideally twice a day (morning and evening).
Pay attention to the drainage of each pot; if waterlogging is noticed, use a small stick to puncture it immediately, as prolonged waterlogging can damage the root system.
– Fertilizing: Fertilization is crucial when growing apricot trees, especially for those in pots. After pruning and shaping, fertilization is needed for healthy growth of branches and leaves.
During this stage, nitrogen and phosphorus are needed more than potassium. NPK fertilizer like “Head of the Bull” 20-20-15TE can be used; mix it into the soil and cover it up. The amount of fertilizer applied each time does not need to be excessive: about 40-50 grams for pots containing 50-60 kg of soil (for trees planted in the ground, the amount is similar but should be applied far from the tree trunk, around the outer edges of the foliage). Frequent watering is essential, especially during dry seasons. Fertilize 2-3 times a month, and if the tree starts to flourish with leaves and branches, that indicates proper care. If the leaves appear too lush, reduce both the amount and frequency of fertilization.
During the rainy season, from June to October, use NPK “Head of the Bull” 13-13-13TE for fertilization, applying 40-50 grams per pot of 50-60 kg of soil, every 15-20 days. Using these fertilizers will provide the necessary macronutrients and micronutrients for the apricot trees. However, when changing soil or after 3-4 months from soil replacement, additional well-rotted manure (cow, pig, or duck manure) mixed with rice husk ash is also beneficial.
At the end of the rainy season, around mid-November, assess the shape of the tree and whether the branches and leaves meet expectations. A final pruning may be done, followed by watering to maintain the tree’s health.
– Weeding and Pest Control: Weeds compete for the nutrients provided by fertilization, so they should be eliminated promptly. Weeding should be done before the rainy season each year. Regarding pests, apricot trees are generally resistant to diseases and pests; however, they are not entirely immune. It is important to monitor the trees and eradicate any detected pests immediately. Some common pests affecting apricot trees include stem borers, aphids, caterpillars, and mealybugs.
* Leaf Shedding:
This process significantly affects the timing of flowering for the apricot tree during Tet (Lunar New Year). The time frame for leaf shedding is limited; completing it in one day is ideal. Prolonged leaf shedding can lead to untimely flowering.
There are two methods for leaf shedding: pulling the leaf backward, which is less labor-intensive and quicker but may inadvertently tear the bark along with the leaf, damaging flower buds and branches; the second method involves pulling the leaf in the direction it grows, which is gentler on the bark but requires more effort and may break tender new shoots if pulled too hard.
To encourage abundant flowering, it is essential to remove all young and old leaves, ensuring that the tips of the branches remain intact.
3. Ensuring Apricot Trees Flower on Tet
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Peach Blossom Pots for Sale During Tet |
Starting from the day the peach tree loses its leaves (usually around the 15th day of the last lunar month), small flower buds about the size of half a grain of rice begin to appear in the leaf axils. Each of these buds gradually grows into a large flower, commonly referred to as the main flower, which is covered by a silk-like outer layer. Within the main flower, there are numerous smaller buds.
From the day the silk covering of the peach blossom appears until it blooms is approximately 7 days. Therefore, if the weather is warm in the days leading up to the Lunar New Year, and the silk covering bursts on the 23rd day of the last lunar month, there is a good chance that by New Year’s Eve, the peach blossoms will start to bloom sporadically.
Determining the day to prune peach leaves: To ensure that the flowers bloom in time for Tet, careful calculations need to be made regarding when to prune the leaves:
* Weather considerations: From the 10th day of the last lunar month, we should pay attention to the following:
– If it is known that the last half of the lunar month will be sunny, with warm weather, then the peach flowers will definitely bloom early. We would prune the leaves later.
– If it is known that there will be heavy rain or a cold snap in the last half of the lunar month, then the peach flowers will bloom late. We need to prune the leaves earlier.
* Observing the flower buds on the tree: It is necessary to observe how the flower buds have developed on the tree before pruning the leaves in order to determine the appropriate day:
– If the flower buds are still small, for the five-petal peach blossom, prune the leaves on the 13th day of the last lunar month.
– If the flower buds are slightly larger, for the five-petal peach blossom, prune the leaves on the full moon or on the 16th day of the last lunar month.
– If the flower buds are large and are expected to burst the silk covering in about 3-4 days, postpone the leaf pruning to the 18th, 19th, or 20th day of the last lunar month.
In summary, from the 10th day of the last lunar month, we should observe the size of flower buds on each peach tree and combine this with the weather to calculate the appropriate day for pruning the leaves. The goal is to ensure that the main flower bursts its silk covering on the day of “Sending Mr. Tao to Heaven” (the 23rd day of the last lunar month).
For varieties of peach blossoms with many petals, after careful calculation as described, we should prune the leaves about one week before the five-petal flowers. It is also important to monitor the fluctuations in the outside weather after pruning the leaves: If it appears that the peach flowers may bloom late, we should encourage blooming by diluting NPK fertilizer (1 tablespoon of fertilizer for 10 liters of water) and watering the plant to promote early blooming. Conversely, if heavy rain comes after a dry spell, the peach flowers will bloom early, so we should limit watering during the day, only watering at midday in moderation. Additionally, if sunny weather returns, we should place the peach tree in the sun to prevent it from blooming too early.
