Behind the alluring golden cheese we enjoy is an intriguing and complex story about the transformation of color.
During the Middle Ages, specifically around the 12th and 13th centuries, sheep were the primary source of milk. However, they faced a fundamental issue: sheep could convert grass into wool or milk, but not both with the same level of efficiency.
This directly impacted the milk supply, and according to Paul Kindstedt, a cheese expert and former president of the American Dairy Science Association, it led to a significant shift in the cheese industry.
The tradition of dyeing cheese with annatto has lasted for centuries.
The story of cheese color began with the transition to a different milk-producing animal. As people shifted from sheep to cows for cheese production, they discovered that cow’s milk contains beta carotene—a natural compound found in grass that contributes to the orange or yellow hues in vegetables like carrots and sweet potatoes.
Beta carotene is metabolized in cows and accumulates in their milk, giving cheese a natural yellow color, especially in spring and early summer when grass is at its freshest. This created a notable difference in color between cow’s cheese and sheep’s cheese, which is naturally white because sheep do not retain beta carotene in their milk.
However, an economic factor also emerged: cow’s milk can be separated into cream for butter, a product that holds a higher market value. When cream is removed, the cheese loses some of the fat containing beta carotene, resulting in a lighter color.
Cheesemakers quickly realized they could address this issue by dyeing the cheese to make it appear as if it still contained sufficient fat and beta carotene. They began using natural substances such as saffron, marigold, and even carrot juice to color the cheese.
In the 16th century, a seed known as annatto, brought back from South America by the Dutch, changed the game. Annatto became a popular dye due to its low cost and vibrant color, meeting market demands.
Since then, annatto has been widely used in dyeing cheese, not only in Dutch cheeses like Gouda but also in English cheeses like cheddar, giving them the appearance of being made from spring milk rich in beta carotene.
The tradition of dyeing cheese with annatto has lasted for centuries, and today, it continues to be maintained. Even though cows no longer graze as much as before and primarily eat corn and soy, consumers still expect the orange-yellow color of cheese.
Annatto is not only found in cheese but also in many other products, from potato chips to various cheese-related snacks, all bearing this distinctive orange hue.
