Known as the “Mountain of Death,” Kawagebo has yet to be successfully climbed, with a failure rate of 100%.
The Mountain of Challenge and Faith
Kawagebo is not only notable for its steep cliffs but also for its harsh climatic conditions. The mountain is shrouded in fog year-round, with sudden snowstorms and strong winds. Its treacherous terrain is adorned with slippery ice walls, vertical rock faces, and deep crevices. Although it is much lower than Everest, the severity of Kawagebo makes it even more dangerous.
In the hearts of the local Tibetans, Kawagebo is not just a peak but a sacred symbol in Tibetan Buddhist culture. Climbing this mountain is considered an offense to the deities, leading to strong opposition from the community. This cultural barrier, combined with religious beliefs, has further complicated the efforts to conquer Kawagebo.
In the Himalayas, Kawagebo—the main peak of the Meili Snow Mountain—is regarded as one of the most challenging mountains to conquer in the world. With an elevation of 6,740 meters, it is significantly lower than Everest, but its perilous terrain, harsh climate, and sacred status demand a high price from any who attempt to scale it.
Early Attempts
The journey to explore Kawagebo began in 1911, when British explorer Frank Kingdon Ward first approached the Meili Snow Mountain. Although he did not attempt to climb it, his expedition paved the way for future journeys. By the 1930s, Austrian climber Herbert Dürrenforth and his team undertook several expeditions. Although they did not reach the summit, their group left behind valuable documentation on the region’s terrain and climate.
When China opened its doors in the 1980s, Kawagebo attracted the attention of international climbing teams. However, every attempt to summit ended in failure, with some even resulting in loss of life. The dangers of the mountain led explorers to realize that to conquer Kawagebo, one needs not only excellent climbing skills but also a profound understanding of the local culture and harmony with its people.
At an altitude of 6,740 meters, it is not only famous for its majestic beauty but also for its deadly dangers.
The Tragedy of the Sino-Japanese Expedition
The greatest tragedy associated with Kawagebo occurred in 1991, when a Sino-Japanese expedition team of 18 members, including 11 Japanese and 7 Chinese climbers, began their attempt to scale the mountain. The team was led by Jiro Inoue, a renowned Japanese meteorologist, along with deputy team leader Song Zhiyi, an experienced mountaineer.
Despite thorough preparations, they faced unforeseen obstacles: sudden snowstorms, altitude sickness, and pressure from the local Tibetan community’s opposition. At a temple at the mountain’s base, thousands of Tibetans gathered to pray against what they perceived as a blasphemous act.
On January 3, 1991, the expedition made its final attempt. But just hours later, all communication with them was lost. Seventeen members of the team disappeared amid the blizzard, with no survivors. A search lasting 20 days found no traces, making their deaths one of the greatest mysteries in mountaineering history.
This mountain is considered sacred by the locals, especially the Tibetans.
Surprising Discoveries After 7 Years
In 1998, seven years after the tragedy, a herdsman accidentally discovered climbing gear in a melting glacier. This discovery led to the finding of the bodies of 16 expedition members. The notes found on their bodies revealed an extraordinary aspect: they reported seeing strange phenomena, such as unusual lights and echoing cries amidst the ice and snow.
Scientists explained these phenomena as a result of oxygen deprivation and extreme cold, causing the human brain to create hallucinations. However, for the Tibetans, what happened to the expedition was seen as divine punishment.
The main reasons that make climbing Kawagebo difficult are the extreme weather conditions, treacherous terrain, and high risk of avalanches.
An Unresolved Mystery
Kawagebo continues to symbolize challenge, tragedy, and faith. This mountain demands not only courage but also serves as a test of understanding and respect for nature and local culture. Although attempts to conquer Kawagebo persist, the question of what lies at the summit of this mountain of death remains open.
Kawagebo reminds us of the limits of humanity against nature, where ambition and reverence must always be balanced to avoid heartbreaking consequences.
