Legend has it that a farmer discovered his pig digging up a root. After eating the root shaped like a mushroom, the pig fainted. Upon further investigation, the farmer realized it was a fragrant tuber that we now call truffle.
Truffles have long been known across various cultures, with recorded recipes indicating that ancient Egyptians consumed mushrooms wrapped in goose fat. The Greeks and Romans used them for medicinal purposes.
However, truffles vanished from historical records during the Dark Ages when their aroma was considered “witch food,” and they did not appear on the tables of the aristocracy until the reign of King Louis XIV of France in the 17th century. At this time, truffles returned as the premier delicacy among European high society.
Truffles have long been known across various cultures. (Photo: 8½ Otto E Mezzo Bombana)
Although pigs are associated with the discovery of truffles, they are no longer used to harvest these rare tubers.
Luca Stanzani, Vice President of the Italian truffle brand Appennino in the U.S., states: “In Italy, using pigs to hunt truffles is illegal for several reasons. First, pigs will eat the truffles, and second, they tend to disrupt the natural wildlife of the forest. Instead, trained dogs are used for hunting truffles. These dogs are specifically trained for this purpose.”
Truffles are a type of natural mushroom, growing underground rather than on the surface like common mushrooms. Truffles have been dubbed “peculiar” mushrooms, as they give no indication of their presence to humans since they are buried deep in dark soil. Therefore, to find truffles, one must train hunting dogs to follow the scent and dig into the earth.
Truffles are almost impossible to cultivate; they can only grow wild in certain soils found in Europe. The quantity that can be harvested in a year depends on Mother Nature’s favor.
Using dogs to hunt truffles is a common practice in Italy. (Photo: Handout)
There are two types of truffles in the world: white truffles and black truffles. They differ in color and flavor. White truffles have a pungent aroma reminiscent of leeks and rosemary. Meanwhile, black truffles have a relatively fresh flavor akin to fruits, fennel, celery, and basil.
A chef named Claudio Favero, who oversees the cuisine at Sabatini Ristorante Italiano, mentions that white truffles pair well with neutral-flavored dishes and are often combined with cheese, potatoes, eggs, chestnuts, and lobster.
In contrast, black truffles tend to be less aromatic and can become burnt during cooking, so they are commonly used in sauces as they pair well with meat. With white truffles, chefs can shave as much as they like over a dish, enhancing its aroma, while with black truffles, shaving about 30 grams will begin to impart a slightly bitter taste.
Additionally, there is a type of purple truffle, which is usually cheaper than the white and black varieties due to its milder flavor. Purple truffles primarily grow in France and Italy and are characterized by their unmistakable dark red-brown color. They have a gentle taste, making them suitable for roasted meats, poultry, and game meats.
Black and purple truffles can be preserved for 1 to 2 weeks, while white truffles are recommended to be used within 5 days to ensure their aroma and flavor remains intact.
Black truffle. (Photo: GourmetFoodStore)
Why are truffles so expensive?
Truffles are known as “the king of mushrooms.” They have high nutritional value and a distinct aroma that is unmistakable. Just one slice of truffle can elevate the flavor of a dish to excellence.
Due to their rarity and unique taste, the price of this mushroom exceeds that of lobster, surpasses gold, and is more expensive than any other mushroom.
This fall, the price of black truffles is around $400 for 450 grams, while white truffles are sold for ten times that—$4,000. The difference in price is simply based on supply and demand.
Black truffles can be found throughout Europe in countries such as Romania, Bulgaria, and Slovenia, but white truffles are only found in Italy and a few small regions in Serbia, primarily on Italian soil. This makes the annual harvest of white truffles dependent on many factors. During the summer months, if there is no rain from May to August, the truffles cannot develop due to the excessively dry soil.
The quality of white truffles depends on the weather and soil quality. The aroma of white truffles is another factor that determines their selling price. The famous and exclusive magnatum pico truffle from the Alba region of Italy is known for its refreshing, intense, and delicate aroma, making it an irreplaceable ingredient that greatly enhances a dish’s appeal.
White truffle. (Photo: Paper Moon)
Chef Umberto Bombana, co-owner of the restaurant 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana and a Michelin 3-star establishment in Hong Kong, is known as the “king of white truffles.” Each year, he holds a truffle auction to support the local children’s fund. In 2019, a Hong Kong resident paid $132,000 for a 1-kilogram white truffle. This truffle was later used in a five-course meal priced at $1,999 per person.
