Ambergris contains the odorless alcohol ambrein, which can help perfumes last longer, making it extremely high-priced in the market.
Many people are willing to spend thousands of USD to buy the smelly waste expelled by sperm whales. Experts consider ambergris to be more valuable than gold.
Ambergris is a gray waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Previously, ambergris was used in the perfume industry, but today it has largely been replaced by synthetic materials and is now found only in some high-end perfumes.
Ambergris forms in the digestive system of sperm whales, but the exact process of its formation remains unexplored. Contrary to popular belief, ambergris is not vomited out by sperm whales, but is excreted along with feces and has a similar odor when first expelled.
Professor Jean Maurice from the Chemistry Department at Paris-Sud University 11 states: “The characteristic of ambergris is its ability to retain fragrance for a very long time. An experiment we conducted showed that when the tip of a toothpick was dipped in liquid ambergris and then placed in an open 750ml bottle of wine, after 3 months, the wine’s aroma had evaporated, but the scent of the ambergris remained intact. This is also why the perfume industry relies on it.”
Moreover, not only is it rare and expensive, but ambergris is also one of the hardest commodities to acquire in the world due to its complete dependence on sperm whales. According to surveys by marine biology experts, on average, only 1 out of every 100 sperm whales expels ambergris. Professor Maurice continues: “It is still unclear how ambergris is vomited by sperm whales, as giant squid are their preferred food, yet not every sperm whale that eats them will eventually expel it.”
Ambergris block found by a British couple on the beach on April 12. (Photo: Mirror).
As the oxidation process causes water and air to evaporate from the mass of excretion, ambergris emits a scent similar to tobacco or the outer coating of trees. The duration of the oxidation process determines the quality and value of ambergris. Renowned French ambergris buyer Bernard Perrin likens it to fine wine, where the longer it is aged, the better it becomes.
Historically, Middle Eastern people ground ambergris into powder and consumed it to enhance virility, boost energy, treat brain and heart ailments, and add flavor to food and beverages.
A medieval text asserts that this ingredient can help treat colds, headaches, and even epilepsy. Ambergris was so valuable that it drove the Portuguese to occupy the Maldives in the 16th century to gain access to its abundant supply.
Ambrein, a chemical component of ambergris, is utilized in the perfume industry to stimulate olfactory senses and prolong fragrance. It is also a key ingredient in the famous Chanel No. 5 perfume.
The amount of ambrein is significant and can be estimated by the color of the ambergris block. The darker the block, the less ambrein it contains, while the white variety has the highest content. High-end perfumes are typically made from white ambergris, while cheaper alternatives use synthetic chemicals.
Flavor chemist George Preti at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in the U.S. explains that the molecules of ambergris are also similar to perfume molecules, both being attracted to fats, but they are heavier and larger.
“The odor molecules have a high affinity for other fat-attracting molecules, which allows them to attach to ambergris molecules and not evaporate at the same time,” says Preti.
Ambergris is also highly sought after in the beauty industry. Its unique properties make it important in skincare products. Firstly, ambergris can improve skin condition, promote skin cell regeneration, enhance skin elasticity, and reduce wrinkle formation. Secondly, ambergris has antioxidant effects, effectively combating free radical damage on the skin and delaying the aging process.
Ambergris also hydrates, restores, and brightens the skin, improving issues like uneven skin tone and dullness, and restoring a radiant and healthy complexion. As a result, many skincare brands have incorporated ambergris as a key ingredient in their products, gaining recognition and love from consumers.
Ambergris is also highly sought after in the beauty industry.
Experts have yet to explain why ambergris is more common in the Southern Hemisphere and why only male sperm whales produce this substance. What makes ambergris increasingly precious and rare is the significant decline in the sperm whale population, which now stands at around 350,000 compared to 1.1 million before being hunted.
The use of ambergris in perfumes is banned in the U.S., but it remains a popular ingredient in perfumes in France. According to Richard Sabin, marine mammal manager at the Natural History Museum, whales are currently protected worldwide, and authorities encourage the use of synthetic compounds to replace ambergris.
Whether in ancient times or today, ambergris has always been a treasure pursued by nobility and collectors. However, it is noteworthy that due to market demand and the rising price of ambergris, some businesses often counterfeit or mix ambergris to profit, making it increasingly difficult to identify and purchase genuine ambergris.
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