From Empress Dowager to the various consorts, no one was without the “nail rings.” And they were not just for decoration.
On the surface, this item appears to be made of metal, intricately decorated, worn on the fingers. It is long and sharply pointed, “swaying” vigorously as the concubines perform rituals or… argue with each other!
But in reality, did the Qing Dynasty really favor such a peculiar accessory? And what was its purpose?
Was it for self-defense, or to serve as living proof of the saying “a thick rind has sharp nails”? You will find the answer shortly.
Nail rings are also known as “fake nails” or “nail armor.” They have been around for a long time, dating back to the Warring States period. Ancient Chinese believed that hair and nails were a gift from their parents, thus they avoided cutting them and let them grow naturally!
Hair was no issue, but long nails could be cumbersome and easily breakable. Therefore, people began to create “nail armor” with the initial simple purpose of protecting long nails.
Both men and women in ancient times favored the “trend” of long nails and long hair.
Nevertheless, both natural nails and protective accessories were quite burdensome, making work difficult.
Thus, only those of noble birth, from the middle class and above, would “grow” long nails and use nail armor. Poor women, often engaged in household chores or heavy agricultural work, would have no opportunity to grow their nails. And it wasn’t just women; men could also use this adornment.
Their nails would signal to others that these women never had to lift a finger for anything, always surrounded by servants waiting to be commanded.
Many women who loved beauty in ancient times felt that having long nails would make their fingers appear longer and more slender.
Additionally, some “superstitious” individuals firmly believed that the longer the nails, the longer their fortune would last.
Therefore, the concubines in the palace—regardless of their rank—also liked to grow long nails, firmly believing that their fortunes would continue to rise.
Over time, it became a habit, and nail armor became a symbol of beauty and power for the high-ranking elite, an essential adornment for women (as they stayed in their quarters, it was easier to “grow” their nails).
According to records in the book “Han Fei Zi,” as early as the Spring and Autumn period (which refers to a historical period from 771-476 BC in Chinese history), some Chinese women had the habit of growing long nails.
Qing Dynasty nail armor designs.
By the time of the Qing Dynasty, nail armor was elevated and became associated with the beautiful concubines of the imperial court. It was no longer just a protective item for nails but a sign of hierarchical status and power.
The Empress and the Noble Consorts wore nail armor made of gold, silver, pearls, and tortoise shell, while lower-ranking concubines used armor made of bronze, ivory, and porcelain…
The patterns carved on the nail armor were also incredibly intricate, with the Empress having phoenix designs. The Empress Dowager’s armor featured the characters “wan” and “shou.” Some nail armor could even be bent to fit the joints of the fingers.
Nail armor of Empress Dowager Cixi.
Among the royal women of the Qing Dynasty, Empress Dowager Cixi is considered to be the most meticulous in nail care, as well as the owner of the most unique and valuable fake nails.
According to some sources, Empress Dowager Cixi’s nails on her ring and pinky fingers were sometimes grown up to 7-8 inches (one of the units of length in China), measuring approximately 23.3-26.7 cm.
Her nails were soaked in warm water, cleaned, and trimmed daily by dedicated attendants.
According to the memoir of a palace maid who served her, Cixi wore gold nail armor on her right hand and pearl armor on her left.
At night, she switched to a less “sparkly” type of armor. She wore them on her pinky and ring fingers, each measuring from 5 to 7 cm in length.
Empress Dowager Cixi’s collection of fake nails was incredibly diverse, with each piece being unique, crafted with exquisite detail, and exuding opulence with materials ranging from gold, agate, and pearls to rare gems and ivory.
Close-up painting of Empress Dowager Cixi’s nail armor.
Cixi took great care of her nails and nail armor. Every day, she had her maids wash them with hot water, followed by polishing with French nail polish.
However, as she aged, her nails naturally “wilted” and became dull. Initially, Cixi blamed her attendants for neglecting their duties. But eventually, she realized she could not fight against the inevitable passage of time. At that point, Cixi finally agreed to… cut her nails regularly!
Understanding the role of nail armor from reality, filmmakers have cleverly brought them to the small screen. The aim was to showcase the distinctive imagery of the Qing Dynasty while also enhancing the impression on the… hands of the consorts.
