The name Hoàn Kiếm Lake, commonly referred to as Bờ Hồ, has become an unwritten yet unique convention among the old Hanoi residents, and it continues to be widely used today.
“Bờ” is a general noun that refers to the land bordering water bodies such as seas, rivers, streams, ditches, lakes, and ponds. This gives rise to terms like bờ biển (beach), bờ sông (riverbank), bờ hồ (lake shore), and bờ ao (pond bank) to describe the land that serves as a boundary between water and adjacent land.
Before the French presence in Hanoi, the city was a land rich with lakes, ponds, and a network of rivers. Notable rivers include the Red River, Tô Lịch, and Kim Ngưu; significant lakes include West Lake, Trúc Bạch, Hoàn Kiếm, Thiền Quang, Bẩy Mẫu, Ba Mẫu, and Thành Công. The population was densely settled in villages along the banks of these rivers and around the shores of these lakes outside the ancient capital of Thăng Long.
After the French completed the conquest of Hanoi in 1883, they began constructing buildings and developing streets to transform Hanoi into a city styled after European urban centers, with the area surrounding Hoàn Kiếm Lake as its focal point.
At that time, the French referred to Hoàn Kiếm Lake as Petit Lac, meaning “small lake,” to distinguish it from West Lake, known as Grand Lac, or “large lake.” On the west bank of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, from north to south, were the villages of Cổ Vũ, Khánh Thụy, Tự Tháp, Phúc Phố, Thị Vật, and Tô Mộc.
The southern bank was home to the villages of Vũ Thạch and Cựu Lâu. The northern bank curved eastward to include the villages of Thăng Bình, Hương Mính (later changed to Hàng Chè), and âu (renamed Cựu Lâu). All of these villages belonged to Thọ Xương District, making Hoàn Kiếm Lake seem like a giant village pond surrounded by settlements.
All the villages and temples around Hoàn Kiếm Lake were gradually demolished to construct administrative buildings such as the Governor’s Office, parks, banks, the Post Office, and the residence of the French Resident Superior on the eastern bank; the Catholic Church of Saint Joseph (the Great Church) on the western bank; and the street Paul Bert on the southern bank (now Tràng Tiền and Hàng Khay streets). A road was formed around the lake, paved for easy transportation, connecting to the old quarter, the French concession of Đồn Thủy, and the later-developed Western-style neighborhoods.
Hoàn Kiếm Lake at the end of the 19th century. (Source: ALT).
The area surrounding Hoàn Kiếm Lake has become increasingly elegant and beautiful, serving as the sole administrative, economic, cultural, and recreational center that cannot be found in any other lakeside area in Hanoi. Thus, instead of referring to the area as the lakeside of Hoàn Kiếm, the people of Hanoi simply say Bờ Hồ: Going to Bờ Hồ, eating ice cream at Bờ Hồ, watching movies at Bờ Hồ, taking photos at Bờ Hồ, the tram station at Bờ Hồ, the Post Office at Bờ Hồ, the Lamp Factory at Bờ Hồ, the Department Store at Bờ Hồ… Everyone in Hanoi understands that this refers to the area surrounding Hoàn Kiếm Lake, with no confusion regarding other lakes in the city.
On tram tickets, it states Bờ Hồ – Chợ Bưởi, Bờ Hồ – Chợ Mơ, Bờ Hồ – Hà Đông, Bờ Hồ – Cầu Giấy… and everyone understands that the starting point is at Hoàn Kiếm Lake.
Alternatively, if someone asks: “Where do you live in Hanoi?”, and the response is: “I live near Bờ Hồ,” it immediately implies that their house is close to Hoàn Kiếm Lake, suggesting a sense of pride in living in the heart of Hanoi.
During the French colonial period, the section of Lê Thái Tổ Street from Đông Kinh Nghĩa Thục Square to house number 18, at the intersection of Hàng Trống, was known as Beau Champ Street, which locals informally referred to as Bờ Hồ Street.
Thủy Tạ House by Hoàn Kiếm Lake, Hanoi. (Source: ALT).
I still remember, in the early years after the takeover of Hanoi, there was a song that the old residents of Hanoi often sang during the temporary occupation:
“Darling, shall we go to Bờ Hồ
To enjoy some coconut ice cream together
Please don’t refuse
I have ten green dong in my pocket
Let’s go, my dear
What do you wish for?
Gold rings, velvet shoes, socks
Phin, umbrella, embroidered shoes…”.
Or the line “Today is Saturday, my dear / Tomorrow is Sunday, let’s go to Bờ Hồ…”.
<pThis is how the romantic young men of Hanoi wooed the ladies. Surely, they were inviting them to enjoy the beauty of Hoàn Kiếm Lake.
Over the decades, the term “bờ hồ” has evolved from a general term to a proper noun specifically referring to Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Thus, aside from names like Lục Thủy, Thủy Quân, Tả Vọng, and Hồ Gươm, the people of Hanoi affectionately call it “Bờ Hồ”.
Children from old Hanoi, now men and women over 50, sometimes mispronounce it as Bồ Hồ. Although the name Bờ Hồ has never been recorded on any administrative maps of Hanoi, it has become a familiar term.
